Introduction to a New Simple Spectral EWRUC Method for the Beach Cusps Formation (Case Study; Makoran Coast)

Beach cusps are shoreline formations made up of various grades of sediment in an arc pattern. Many works are carried out to determine forming theories and effective parameters on cusps, and the standing edge wave and the self-organization theories are more acceptable. This study aims to investigate theories affecting cusps of Roudic port, located on Makoran coasts of Iran. The DHI MIKE software is used for modeling and the Madsen laboratory model is applied for the numerical-model calibration. A new method as Edge Wave and Run-up Comparison (EWRUC) is introduced, working by extracting the edge wave from energy density spectrum and comparing with run up, subsequently. This is a fast and simple (one dimensional) method for determining theory of cusp formation. Many scenarios adapted to the Roudic coast waves are based on monsoon and ocean waves. The results from EWRUC indicate that the theories of edge wave and self-organization are dominant in seasons of ocean-waves and monsoon-waves, respectively. EWRUC responses correctly to beaches that are similar to Roudic beach.

کلیدواژه ها:

Beach Cusps ، Edge Wave Theory ، Self-Organization Theory ، Mike ۲۱ BW Module ، Roudic Coasts